Description
This SCA appropriate Persian Bannthegn’s coronet was based on "The Seated Princess" (1) an illumination of the Safavid Dynasty (1501-1722). I made all attempts to stay as accurately close to the illuminated piece as possible. I did, however, have to make several concessions in its construction due to sumptuary traditions, comfort & aesthetic appeal. I will note these concessions throughout this documentation.
The headdress of high ranking (Safavid) women is a tiara worn with a white head cloth with drooping points (Brend, 189).
See table in documentation please.
Construction (Process Table included in documentation)
The coronet is constructed of individual brass plaques that have been acid-etched with a decorative design, including some heraldry (which is a personal touch not a period affectation), then mounted to a brass band using brass rivets. Five unique plaques were designed using the tiara shown in the Seated Princess (See Figure 1) to make up the body of the piece. I made 5 plaques because Bannthegn coronets are, according to Atenveldt Sumptuary Traditions, 6 pointed. However, the original piece was made of an odd number of plaques, so I chose to an odd number to correspond with the original piece. Each plaque has a length of copper tubing tin-soldered to the back used to house freshwater pearls by a headpin & spacer beads. These pearls would not have been seen at the tops of each point in period, but were placed there to denote rank per sumptuary tradition.
After close inspection of the Seated Princess (see Figure 1) I determined that the individual plaques must have had some form of engraving on their surface. Much of the appeal of Islamic metalwork lies in its surface decoration. Even the most complex forms were covered in minute decoration which challenges the three-dimensionality of the object. (Ward, 35)
The individual I fabricated this coronet for is a Laurel within the Society for Creative Anachronism. I wanted her coronet to denote this while not being obvious. I also wished to include subtle pieces of her personal arms as well of that of the Kingdom while still maintaining a Persian flair in the design. Therefore, the middle plaque represents the individual and the Kingdom she served and the other plaques were decorated in my artistic rendition of the Laurel. Baer states that "flowers or shrubs are often set into medallions or bands and function as ornament…" noting that vegetative surface decoration was common.
Sources Cited
Asian Art Museum. "Candlestand 1575-1625". 2004 The Avery Brundage Collection. 11 June 2007 http://www.aamdocents.org/AAM/Persia/bronze/b62b34candlestand.htm
Atil, Esin; Chase, W.T.; Jett, Paul. Islamic Metalwork in the Freer Gallery of Art. Freer Gallery of Art: Smithsonian Institution. Washington, D.C., 1985
Baer, Eva. Metalwork in Medieval Islamic Art. State University of New York Press. Albany, NY. 1983
Biringuccio, Vannoccio. De La Pirotechnia. Trans. Cyrel Stanley Smith and Martha Teach Gnudi. Dover Publications. Mineola, NY. 1990
Brend, Barbara. Perspectives on Persian Painting: Illustrations to Amir Khusrau’s Khamsa. RouteledgeCurzon. New York, NY. 2003, p. 189
Chardin, Sir John. Travels in Persia 1673-1677, , Dover Publications, 1988, pg. 216
Fliegel, Stephen N. Arms and Armor. The Cleveland Museum of Art. New York, NY. 1998.
Nigel, Tallis, John Curtis & Beatrice Andre-Salvini. Forgotten Empire: The World of Ancient Persia. University of California Press. Berkley & Los Angeles, CA. 2005
Ward, Rachel. Islamic Metalwork. The Trustees of the British Museum. London. 199