Description

Sormeh is an eye enhancing cosmetic known throughout the centuries across the Middle East by many names including kohl, kuhl, mesdemet, kajaal, sirma, etc. Its roots lie in ancient Egypt where it beautified and protected the eyes of both men and women. Egyptian mesdemet much like its ancestor, Persian sormeh, came in many forms including powdered minerals or powdered soot. "Everyone had galena powder however while the poor resorted to sticks to apply it, the wealthy had intricately carved and bejeweled containers of ivory or other precious materials" (Illes).

In both the ancient Egyptian and Safavid Persian (1501-1722) cultures the powders were believed to have medicinal qualities outside of their cosmetic uses. In her article on "Ancient Egyptian Eye Makeup" Judith Illes mentions that "Galena possesses disinfectant and fly-deterrent properties" and that "the medical papyri frequently prescribe mesdemet for assorted complaints of the eye." Safavid Persians also utilized the compound for medical purposes. Sormeh (kuhl) was one of many forms of ocular compound remedies described in medieval Persian ophthalmologic manuals such as Hunayn ibn Ishaq’s Ten Treatises on the Eye and Ali ibn Isa al-Kahhal’s Memorandum Book for Oculists (Pormann).