The garment, a late Elizabethan Smock was chosen to stretch my capabilities as a seamstress. I used a number of extant garments as inspiration. Links are listed below. This is my first attempt at a garment outside my normal SCA timezone.
3 yards of 4 ounce linen natural/ecru coloured.
2 yards of cotton linen mix lace
15 yards of pearl cotton embroidery thread. green, dark green, ecru colours. I used this thread, as I didn't have the equivalent silk embroidery thread.
hand needles of various sizes
I drafted a pattern using bits and pieces of smock patterns in PoF4. #77 and a bit of #78m as embroidery covered up part of the smock, yet the pattern was clearer.
After cutting the pattern adjusted to my size, I hand stitched everything. I did the gussets, gores, collar, and cuffs first. Then I assembled the rest of the garment. I used a running back stitch, backstitch, running stitch and felling stitch. The collar front opening and cuff openings are narrow rolled hems. The cuffs have handworked eyelets. I used finger loop braiding to make the drawstrings. All of these techniques are appropriate for the era. I used a cross stitch and chain stitch for the embroidery.
The only item I didn't make was the lace. However, it looked very similar to lace used on a number of examples seen online and in PoF4.
Were I to make another smock of this style, I would make the neck gores a little bigger at the point where it meets the collar.
Janet Arnold's Patterns of Fashion 4. (PoF4)
Pinterest. I have some of my inspiration pins on my board. https://www.pinterest.com/jayesudar/elizabethan1640s/